Beginner Blacksmith Projects, Ranked by Difficulty
Quick answer
Start with an S-hook to learn tapers and scrolls, then work down a difficulty ladder: J-hook, drive hook, bottle opener, leaf keychain, fire poker, letter opener, coat rack, tongs, and a railroad-spike knife. Each project adds one new skill. Use cheap mild steel for everything except blades, and never forge galvanized or mystery scrap.
Where to start
Every skill in blacksmithing shows up in a handful of small projects: drawing a taper, rolling a scroll, cutting a shoulder, punching a hole, and putting in a twist. The projects below are ordered so each one adds a single new move to what you already know. Start at the top, repeat each project until it looks clean, then move down the list.
You do not need rare steel or fancy gear. Almost everything here comes off a stick of mild bar and a beginner hammer. The goal is not to fill your shelf with hooks - it is to build hammer control that carries into every project you make afterward.
| Project | Skills | Stock | Difficulty |
|---|---|---|---|
| S-hook | Tapers, scrolls | 1/4 in round | Easy |
| J-hook / wall hook | Taper, bend, punch | 3/8 in square | Easy |
| Drive hook | Point, right-angle bend | 3/8 in square | Easy-Moderate |
| Bottle opener | Punch, drift, shape | 1/2 in round | Moderate |
| Leaf keychain | Isolate mass, vein | 1/4 in round | Moderate |
| Fire poker | Long taper, twist, loop | 1/2 in square | Moderate |
| Letter opener | Flatten, taper, twist | 3/8 in square | Moderate |
| Coat-hook rack | Repeatable hooks, rivet | 3/8 in + flat bar | Moderate-Hard |
| Pair of tongs | Draw out, offset boss, rivet | 1/2 in square | Hard |
| Spike knife / hawk | Draw edge, heat treat | RR spike / 1084 | Hard |
Check your steel's forging heat
The only tools these projects need
You can forge every project on this page with three tools. A 2 lb cross-peen hammer draws tapers and spreads metal with the peen; a pair of wolf-jaw tongs grips round, square, and flat stock so you are not forging one-handed; and a starter kit bundles the odd items - punches, a wire brush, tongs, and sometimes a small hammer - that beginners forget to buy separately. If you would rather choose pieces individually, compare options in our best beginner hammer guide and the hammer types reference.
Cross-peen hammer 2 lb
13 in handle
- Weight
- 2 lb
- Material
- Forged Steel
- Face (in)
- 1.25
- Handle
- Hickory
Standard beginner weight. Re-hang and dress the face if it arrives with a rough or sharp-edged finish.
Swedish-pattern cross-peen 2.2 lb
14 in handle
- Weight
- 2.2 lb
- Material
- Forged Steel
- Face (in)
- 1.3
- Handle
- Hickory
Slightly heavier head with a crisp peen for drawing out. Comfortable all-day weight for most adults.
Cross-peen hammer 1.5 lb
12 in handle
- Weight
- 1.5 lb
- Material
- Forged Steel
- Face (in)
- 1.1
- Handle
- Hickory
Lighter option if 2 lb tires your wrist or elbow. Better for detail and small knives.
Wolf-jaw tongs 3/8 in
18 in
- Material
- Forged Steel
- Jaw capacity
- 0.375 in
The most versatile first tong - grips flat, round and square stock near 3/8 in. May need adjusting on the anvil to seat well.
Wolf-jaw tongs 1/2 in
19 in
- Material
- Forged Steel
- Jaw capacity
- 0.5 in
Same versatile jaw sized for 1/2 in stock. Good second tong once you outgrow 3/8 in.
Blacksmith starter tool kit (hammer, tongs, brush)
varies
Tools-only kit to pair with a forge and anvil you buy separately. Confirm hammer weight and tong jaw size fit your plans.
Blacksmith starter kit with propane forge
varies
- BTU/hr
- 90,000
- Burners
- 1
- Regulator
- 0-20 PSI
All-in-one bundle including a small single-burner forge. Convenient, but the anvil is usually undersized - plan to upgrade it.
Knife-maker starter kit
varies
Aimed at first knives - often steel, files and a guide. Check whether a forge and quench setup are included or extra.
How the projects build on each other
Notice how the list climbs. An S-hook is nothing but two tapers and two scrolls, so it isolates the single most important skill - moving metal to a clean point. A J-hook adds a punched screw hole and a controlled bend. The drive hook sharpens that bend into a crisp right angle.
By the time you reach the bottle opener you are punching and drifting a hole all the way through the bar, and the leaf keychain teaches you to isolate a mass and add veins. Longer pieces like the fire poker and letter opener introduce the twist, which looks hard and is actually one of the easiest ways to make plain bar look finished. Keep the forging temperature table in view so you are working hot enough to move metal but not burning it.
Stock and steel: what to buy
For everything except knives, buy plain mild steel - A36 hot-rolled or 1018 - in 1/4 in, 3/8 in, and 1/2 in round and square bar. A 20 ft stick of each keeps you forging for months and costs less than a single specialty tool. Mild steel forgives beginner mistakes: you can overheat it, hammer it cold by accident, and reheat it many times without ruining it. Square stock takes twists and scrolls better than round and is the better default for hooks.
When you are ready to forge a blade, step up to a known carbon steel like 1084 and read the knife steel comparison first - the steel decides whether your knife can be hardened at all. If you are still assembling your kit, the beginner tools list covers the exact bar sizes and consumables to start with.
Common beginner mistakes
The most common beginner error is forging too cold. Steel moves best at a bright orange to yellow heat; when it drops to dull red, stop hitting it and put it back in the fire. Swinging at cold steel just beats up your arm and mushrooms your work.
The second mistake is skipping steps to chase a finished piece - forge ten clean S-hooks before you attempt tongs, because tongs fail fast if your drawing-out is sloppy. Third, watch your stock choice. It is tempting to forge whatever scrap is in the barn, but unknown metal can be coated, plated, or simply the wrong alloy. When in doubt, check the color against a forging temperature chart and buy new bar - it is cheap insurance for both your lungs and your learning.
How to Forge a J-Hook (Wall Hook)
- Cut and heat the stock Cut a 6 in length of 3/8 in square mild steel. Bring one end to a bright orange heat in the forge, checking the color against a forging temperature chart if you are unsure.
- Draw the tip taper Forge a four-sided taper on the heated end over the anvil face, rotating the bar a quarter turn between blows until you have a smooth point about 1.5 in long. Reheat as soon as the color fades to dull red.
- Flatten and punch the mounting end Flatten the opposite end into a small paddle, then punch or drill a screw hole through it. A punched hole keeps the forged look; a drilled hole is easier for a first attempt.
- Bend the hook curve Reheat the middle to orange and bend the tapered end down and around the horn or the far edge of the anvil to form the J shape. Aim for a smooth curve, not a kink.
- Set the back bend Put a slight reverse bend just below the screw hole so the hook stands off the wall and sits flat when mounted. Check it against a flat surface.
- Finish Let it air cool, wire-brush off the scale, and protect the surface with paste wax applied while the metal is slightly warm, or a light coat of oil.
Frequently asked questions
What is the best first blacksmith project?
An S-hook. It is forgiving, uses cheap 1/4 in mild steel, and teaches the two moves you will use forever: drawing a clean taper and rolling a scroll. You can forge a dozen in an evening, and each one shows exactly where your hammer control needs work. Once your tapers are smooth and even, move on to a J-hook or drive hook.
What steel should beginners use for practice projects?
Plain mild steel - A36 hot-rolled or 1018 - in 1/4 to 1/2 in round or square bar. It is cheap, forgives overheating, and moves easily under a light hammer. Save carbon steel like 1084 for when you are forging blades. Avoid galvanized, plated, or unknown scrap, and read the knife steel comparison before buying any blade stock.
Can you make a real knife from a railroad spike?
You can forge a knife-shaped tool, but most railroad spikes are low-carbon steel. Even the ones stamped 'HC' (high carbon) top out around 0.30% carbon, well below the roughly 0.60% or more a knife needs to harden properly. A spike knife holds a dull working edge and makes a fun letter opener or camp tool, but for a blade that takes and keeps a real edge, buy 1084.
How long until I can forge a pair of tongs?
Most beginners are ready after a month or two of regular practice, once tapers, shoulders, and drawing out feel natural. Tongs combine several skills at once and need decent hammer control, so they sit near the end of this list. Until then, an inexpensive manufactured pair keeps you safe; see the beginner tongs guide for options.
Do I need a power hammer or press for these projects?
No. Every project here is hand-hammer work on 1/4 to 1/2 in stock, which a 2 to 2.5 lb hammer moves easily. Power tools help with heavy stock and production, not with learning fundamentals. Put your money toward a solid anvil, a good hammer, and reliable propane before anything mechanical.
Last verified 2026-06. Specs, sizes and market prices change - confirm details on the retailer page before buying.